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Honda_Boy

My Project

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I have to put my foot into it a little more though. Discs take more fluid than drums.

Amount of fluid doesn't matter.

Bleed your brakes. Ive never once had a mechanic bleed the brakes to my liking.

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Well from what I've read, the Integra rear discs require more fluid than Civic CX rear drums hence why my pedal has so much travel. I misworded it I guess. I don't actually have to put down any more pressure when braking. I just have to push the pedal in further. There's a large dead space before anything happens but once you get through the dead space, it works perfectly. The larger master cylinder should shorten the dead space. BUT I've also heard of people using larger disc setups using the stock master cylinder BUT they used SS braided brake lines that don't expand like OEM rubber brake lines do. None of those people track their cars though. I plan to upgrade all of it for track use. I'm going to a larger EX Master Cylinder, larger EX front brakes and Goodridge Stainless Steel braided brake lines. After words, I plan to change the rotors out for slotted ones and upgrade to Hawk brake pads.

This car is going to be tracked one way or another and I'm starting with brakes. More stopping power means later braking into corners. Then it's suspension upgrades. Better suspension means I can enter corners quicker nad hold traction through them. Then finally upgrade the motor a little for the straights. I wanna keep the motor in a streetable condition as well since I will still wanna just drive it. Of course, in there will come a racing type wheel (or an EK9 Civic wheel), racing bucket with 5 point harness (I'm thinking red Recaro seats and Takata Harnesses), more accurate tachometer and other stuff as well. I'm damn well determined to make this thing a worthy track car while still being streetable. Most the parts I'm picking are sport and not race versions because of this.

Edited by Honda_Boy

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And now I'm about to go insane.

Took my car into the tire place today for another alignment. I thought the brake swap threw it off cause my steering wheel is now kinda turned to the right. So lets just say I walked out without having to pay anything. I waited 2 and half hours to be told my alignment was fine but the camber on the right side of my car is screwed. The only way to properly fix it is to buy camber kits (which usually you do with lowered cars anyway, but my drop is so mild I originally didn't need it). So now, I'm looking $230-250 for some BLOX Racing Camber Kits (front and rear). But I'm gonna call my mechanic and see if worn shocks can also cause this cause I think I still have the OEM shocks. If the shocks are causing the problem then I will go ahead and get new KYB GR2 shocks (or whatever) first then camber kits later but if my mechanic suggests the camber kits then I'll do what I thought I was gonna do last in my suspension overhaul first. Camber kits replace the OEM Upper Control Arms and are adjustable so you can dial in your preferred camber level (drift racers often like to do insane camber), in my case OEM Honda levels.

Then later at work, my parking brake jams. The handle still moved but it didn't matter where it was, the brake was stuck partially engaged. The car could move but there was strong resistance. I "fixed" it by grabbing the handle, pressing the button, and yanking the handle up as hard as I could. There was a loud pop. I dropped the handle back down and the brake had disengaged completely. Thank god. BUT, now it doesn't hold as well. I loosened it a LOT when I did that.

When it rains, it pours.

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I can't think how shocks would affect the steering wheel angle (maybe if one were broken and jammed into the suspension) ... though the struts (if present) could, I guess.

The parking brake problem doesn't surprise me as the disk brake swap is an entirely new parking brake mechanism, there were sure to be bugs to work out.

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I had a fiero that the parking brake would sometime stick. I would carry a hammer with me just in case. Finally fixed it by buying a RX 7... actually that fixed a lot of little problems.

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... fixed it by buying a RX 7...

:lol:

Guess you could say I "fixed" the fuel injection problem with my Opel by buying a Mustang Cobra, then I "fixed" the engine-rebuild-gone-wrong problem with the Mustang by buying a Jeep, I "fixed" the totaled-by-an-inattentive-driver problem with the Jeep by buying a Dodge Spirit, then I "fixed" the something-new-breaks-every-month problem with the Dodge by buying a Ford Explorer. :lol:

-----

Edited by JDoors

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Then you'll fix the biggest problem with buying Honda, Toyota, or Nissan. That problem being the badge that's on it :P Just kiddin man.

Got my parts priced out and goodbye tax return. It's gonna be like $430 or so for all the parts I need. I'm getting brand new OEM Distributor Cap and Rotor, NGK Iridium IX Temp7 Spark Plugs, NGK OE Replacement Spark Plug Wires (supposedly better than the OEM Sumitomo ones but my mechanic runs OEM ones on his 500HP Turbo Civic Si), and BLOX Racing Front and Rear Camber Kits (essentially adjustable upper control arms).

My birthday is in just over 2 months so I think I'm gonna try and get some parts outta the parents. I think the most I may get is a Strut Bar. If I'm lucky I may be able to drag some shocks and springs out of them. I mean hell, I got a whole exhaust out of them last year. Granted it was cheaper custom one rather than a platform specific one like I wanted but I still made out alright.

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Then you'll fix the biggest problem with buying Honda, Toyota, or Nissan. That problem being the badge that's on it :P Just kiddin man. ...

We know you're kidding, no one else needs twenty-eight pages (so far) to explain the work their cars need done. :P

Just kiddin' man! :lol:

The new stuff you mentioned, holy! That's a lot of stuff. The only thing I remember adding to any of my cars was an aftermarket cruise control (the Cobra would've come with a "luxury" steering wheel instead of the three spoke drilled aluminum one if I had ordered cruise).

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We know you're kidding, no one else needs twenty-eight pages (so far) to explain the work their cars need done. :P

Gotta remember, I'm restoring an abused car and building it to race on a track. :thumbsup: Just need something better than a minimum wage part time job to get more done.

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Many years ago I would run autocross (think they call it solo now) I learned three thing. You will never have enough money. Next a three day driving instruction course is worth more then all your car mods. And finally always have a second street car you will need it.

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... Just need something better than a minimum wage part time job to get more done.

OK, list everything you'd love to do for this car, cost-no-object.

If money weren't an issue for me I WOULD have modified the Jeep, but only because I had it so long. I ordered it from the factory nearly bare-bones as a Winter commuter (I still had the Mustang at the time), but once it became my only vehicle it would've been cool to modify it. Man it up a little. At the very least a brush bar, the (plastic) grille took a lot of abuse off-road.

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Here's what I want

Complete suspension overhaul including:

Tein Coilover System

BLOX Rear LCA's

BLOX Camber Kits (getting them)

Neuspeed Lower Tie Bar

Neuspeed Sway Bars

Password: JDM 3 Point Front Strut Bar

Password JDM: 4 Point Rear Strut Bar

Possibly some other crap

Brakes:

EK9 Civic Type-R or DC2 Integra Type-R 5-Lug Brake conversion

Spoon Sports Rotors

Spoon Sports Calipers

Hawk Pads

Goodridge or Earl's Stainless Steel Brake Lines

Engine:

If I build the B16A2:

Buddy Club Valve Train

Buddy Club Spec III Plus Cams

Buddy Club Adjustable Cam Gears

DC2 Integra Type-R Pistons

Password: JDM Power Chamber Carbon Fiber Intake

Toda Header

Either A'PEXi N1 Catback Exhaust (Louder but more top-end Horsepower) or A'PEXi World Sport II Catback exhaust (Not as loud but provides more low to mid range torque)

Chipped and tuned ECU or AEM EMS

OR:

JDM DC5 Integra Type-R K20A Engine Swap with most of the same or similar crap along with a lightweight flywheel and racing clutch (my B16 already has a lightweight flywheel and racing clutch)

Transmission (same on either motor):

Spoon Sports Limited Slip Differential

Team MFactory Gear Set

Exterior:

EDM Civic Folding Mirrors (ones NOT from the UK so the curved mirror is on the correct side)

J's Racing Front Lip

JDM EK9 Civic Type-R Rear Lip

Either a JDM EK9 Civic Type-R Wing or a Spoon Sports Spoiler

JDM EK9 Civic Type-R 97-98 headlights

JDM EK9 Civic Type-R Grille

JDM/EDM Civic Fenders (the same over all models)

JDM Civic Thin Side Moldings

ViS Carbon Fiber Hood

AeroCatch Flush Hood Fastener Kit

Wheels (actually there are many I'd like):

Volk Racing CE-28N's

Volk Racing TE-37's

or

Work Emotion CR-Kai's

Interior:

JDM EK9 Civic Type-R Red Recaro Front Seats

JDM EK9 Civic Type-R Rear Seats

JDM EK9 Civic Type-R Red Carpet

JDM EK9 Civic Type-R Door Panels

OMP or Takata 5-point Harnesses

Skunk2 Short Shifter

JDM EK9 Civic Type-R Shift knob (unless I do the swap, then i would get a JDM DC5 Integra Type-R knob)

USDM EM1 Civic Si Gauge Cluster

JDM EK9 Civic Type-R Steering Wheel

or

Personal Steering Wheel with NRG Quick Release Hub

That's all I can think of at the moment. Could be more. Chances are, this will never happen though. I plan on a very mild build to make it both trackable and streetable.

Edited by Honda_Boy

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:blink:

The only item that struck a chord with me was the Recaro seats: The Mustang had 'em and they were PERFECT. In the years since OEM seats have become just as good, if not as good looking.

Play the lotto much? :lol:

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in my case, the OEM seats will not hold you in place as well. Plus the Civic Type-R Recaros are more comfortable as well. Chances are, I won't have CTR Recaros but I will try to get some kind of (good) racing buckets for when I track it. If I were to even get Recaros it'd probably be new Password: JDM Recaros since they are cheaper and easier to get than used JDM Civic Type-R and Integra Type-R Recaros. Password: JDM is an American company and Recaro makes some just for them to sell here while the CTR and ITR Recaros come out of CTR's and ITR's that were sold only in Japan From 95-01 (97-00 for the CTR).

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Isn't it funny how some folks are shielded from this poor economy? Saving for the future is quite over rated and it's good to see some folks haven't fallen for it.

hahahahahaha :thumbsup:

(The practical side of me getting out of hand.)

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Well, I'm getting screwed with my tax return so it's not even gonna completely cover my friggin tune-up parts so I'm gonna have to wait on my damn camber kits.

I won't get my tax return in at least 8 days but I went ahead and ordered the tune-up parts. Honda OEM Distributor Cap and Rotor, NGK Spark Plug Wires, NGK Iridium Temp 7 Spark Plugs. Friggin $162 (my return was only $150).

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Well, I'm getting screwed with my tax return so it's not even gonna completely cover my friggin tune-up parts so I'm gonna have to wait on my damn camber kits.

I won't get my tax return in at least 8 days but I went ahead and ordered the tune-up parts. Honda OEM Distributor Cap and Rotor, NGK Spark Plug Wires, NGK Iridium Temp 7 Spark Plugs. Friggin $162 (my return was only $150).

I've never been successful in explaining federal tax withholding to anybody, and I don't expect to be successful here, but you did not get "screwed." You got to spend YOUR hard-earned money throughout 2008 (and much of that was documented here).

You OVERPAID the U.S. Government by one-hundred-and-fifty dollars! Sure, they returned it to you, but they don't even have the decency to pay interest on the money they took from your paycheck, that you didn't owe them in the first place.

I'm gonna keep goin' even though there's no point: Would you rather have had a thousand dollars LESS to spend during 2008, even though that means you wouldn't have been able to buy all the things you did? Didn't you ALREADY have some trouble coming up with enough money for the stuff you needed or wanted? But you're saying you WISH you had even less money to spend last year?

How does that even make sense?

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The bastards withheld over $450 and I only got $149 of it back.

Just wait till you have a full time job and they take thousands of dollars and don't give it back.

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Yeah I know. But still i was looking forward to a good bit more than that. Last year I got a pissant $67 but I knew that's what I was expecting. This year I was expecting $400 or so.

Ah well. I just gotta wait a coupla week and I'll have the money for the camber kits. It's not dire to have them now. I was told by the guy at the tire place I don't have to worry so much about tire wear but rather the back-end coming out. I think the guy was assuming I drive the car harder than I do. Right now the only kinda "hard" driving I do is when I get the feeling to do so, I wind out a gear or 2 down a straight (mainly just 1st and 2nd which only gets me 60-65 MPH).

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I figured out the tax problem. I had 2 W2's cause the place I work at was sold in June. My previous employer didn't have everything set up right so not enough of my check was taken out. My new employer had it set up right so all the money I was supposed to get out that W2 was lost paying for what wasn't taken out on the other. If I hadn't gotten a new employer, I think I might have had to pay.

Anyway, my tune-up stuff was supposed to come in today. InLineFour is a great place to buy stuff from but they always have it set up to where you have to sign for your packages from them. UPS will probably come by while I'm gone at class today so I will probably have to wait till tomorrow to get my stuff unless they deliver it late enough for my parents to be home while I'm work (they called yesterday that it would be delivered between 8AM and 7PM).

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