Honda_Boy

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Posts posted by Honda_Boy


  1. Here's something to try. That may actually solve your slowness problem easily. Disable the Resident Shield in AVG and see if that helps. If so, then AVG might be your problem. AVG recently became bloated and on my old XP install, it killed the performance bad. I had an Athlon x2 6000+ with 4GB of RAM running unbearably slow but switched out AVG for Avast and the performance was finally back up to where it was supposed to be. I've since switched to Vista on this rig and have only used Avast so I don't know quite how it would perform on it now but I doubt it'd be any better than in XP (though my Vista install is actually faster than XP).


  2. Well, often times a SP1 install can cause issues particularly if the system had been running long before it's install. Often times for me the best course of action would be a full reinstall and use Windows Update to get all the updates and SP1 before installing anything else (and that includes Anti-Virus'). I had Sp3 on XP botch an install. Had to reinstall XP SP2 and install all the updates and SP3 before anything else to make in work correctly. Ditto with Vista. When I upgraded my main rig to Vista Home premium x64, I made sure to have all updates before installing any Anti-Virus, or any other programs for that matter to make sure it all went well and it worked.

    A question I would like to ask is did you install SP1 with an Anti-Virus or Firewall running during the SP1 install? Sometimes that an cause it to install incorrectly.

    My Laptop also had a clean bill of health so to speak but was still operating very strangely and a reinstall fixed it. Again, like I said sometimes the a reinstall of the OS, is the easiest and most sure fire way to solve an issue such as this.

    A good example was a recent repair job. I got this guy's computer, ran scans out the hind end and cleaned it out. Tried everything to return it to normal but all was in vain because though now clean and many errors fixed, it was still unbearably slow. Removing NORTON was a big help but still it was slow. Reinstalled XP on it, did all the updates (including SP3), installed all my normally recommended software (FF3, Avast, COMODO, etc.), removed all unnecessary software (recovery partition), returned all his files and programs and it was like "new" but familiar. Had I just recovered his files and did the reinstall to start, I could have saved myself 5 hours.

    Another Job, went to my local comic book shop to fix the owner's computer. The computer was running slow and Windows Genuine whatever was rejecting it (strangely it was a genuine copy). Luckily he had already run the time consuming scans so I didn't have to. Turned up nothing. He had called another guy and was mad cause he was out some cash since all the stuff he did helped nothing. I brought my XP disc and a spare XP license (his was an upgrade, mine was OEM) asked him to move all his stuff on the main to his secondary drive, and then got to the fresh XP install. After I was done, had all the updates and recommended software installed, he was so happy. He's also the guy that delivers the bread to my work (I do the computer stuff on the side) so every time I see him, I ask how his system is doing. He says it's great and thanks me every time (I gave him that license and didn't even charge him for the work, he's just gonna find a Gundam Action figure I've been looking for and give it to me when he finds it as payment).

    So you may think my way is reckless but it is effective.


  3. Yeah for me it was real strange cause it started slowing down and became unstable right after I busted the Monitor on it (dropped something on it). Ordered a replacement LCD and stuck it in there and reinstalled Windows shortly after. It's never been better.

    Now, there are some things you could do before hand just to try. Run Malwarebytes Anti-Malware and see if it picks anything up and also try a Virus scan like Avast or something. If none of those helps, my typical response is to back up my things and reinstall. I've got so many external hard drives and flash drives, it ain't nothin to back-up and reinstall and to me that's usually the most painless and sure fire way to go.


  4. your trying to watch a video with h.264 encoding which at high res, is processor intensive. newer video cards have the ability to take over the h.264 decoding work from the processor. Your 6600GT if I remember correctly does NOT do that so the work is all left up to the processor which cannot handle 1080p h.264 encoded video.


  5. Your system is a tad old and overclocking isn't going to help much. Most people that overclock do it with high end systems that have motherboards made to overclock and they do it to break benchmark records or squeeze out a few FPS out of Crysis or what have you.

    I'm bettin the file you are trying to play is a 1080p .mkv or .mp4 (h.264) which demands quite a bit a power. You're just gonna have to go with some new hardware to handle that. I know my old Athlon 64 3500+, nForce4 SLIx16, GeForce 7600GT systems plays 720p stuff fine but I bet it'd have trouble with 1080p. I've never tried on it cause I already had my Athlon X2 6000+, nForce 590 SLI, GeForce 8800GT by the time I had any to try.

    Also a question. What video card do you have? Cause a lot of newer GPU's offload H.264 decoding from the CPU.


  6. And now I'm about to go insane.

    Took my car into the tire place today for another alignment. I thought the brake swap threw it off cause my steering wheel is now kinda turned to the right. So lets just say I walked out without having to pay anything. I waited 2 and half hours to be told my alignment was fine but the camber on the right side of my car is screwed. The only way to properly fix it is to buy camber kits (which usually you do with lowered cars anyway, but my drop is so mild I originally didn't need it). So now, I'm looking $230-250 for some BLOX Racing Camber Kits (front and rear). But I'm gonna call my mechanic and see if worn shocks can also cause this cause I think I still have the OEM shocks. If the shocks are causing the problem then I will go ahead and get new KYB GR2 shocks (or whatever) first then camber kits later but if my mechanic suggests the camber kits then I'll do what I thought I was gonna do last in my suspension overhaul first. Camber kits replace the OEM Upper Control Arms and are adjustable so you can dial in your preferred camber level (drift racers often like to do insane camber), in my case OEM Honda levels.

    Then later at work, my parking brake jams. The handle still moved but it didn't matter where it was, the brake was stuck partially engaged. The car could move but there was strong resistance. I "fixed" it by grabbing the handle, pressing the button, and yanking the handle up as hard as I could. There was a loud pop. I dropped the handle back down and the brake had disengaged completely. Thank god. BUT, now it doesn't hold as well. I loosened it a LOT when I did that.

    When it rains, it pours.


  7. Sounds like you ought to be good then.

    I do watch HD and even just 720p a little horsepower is needed so if you plan to start using a computer to watch HD content on a TV in the future, you will need to upgrade but not too much really. My 1.86GHz Celeron 440 laptop (based on a final gen Pentium) with 1.5GB of RAM that, and an Intel 945G M chipset handles 720p HD no prob (but I usually only watch on my Athlon X2 6000+, 4GB RAM, GeForce 8800GT system though :P)


  8. Well from what I've read, the Integra rear discs require more fluid than Civic CX rear drums hence why my pedal has so much travel. I misworded it I guess. I don't actually have to put down any more pressure when braking. I just have to push the pedal in further. There's a large dead space before anything happens but once you get through the dead space, it works perfectly. The larger master cylinder should shorten the dead space. BUT I've also heard of people using larger disc setups using the stock master cylinder BUT they used SS braided brake lines that don't expand like OEM rubber brake lines do. None of those people track their cars though. I plan to upgrade all of it for track use. I'm going to a larger EX Master Cylinder, larger EX front brakes and Goodridge Stainless Steel braided brake lines. After words, I plan to change the rotors out for slotted ones and upgrade to Hawk brake pads.

    This car is going to be tracked one way or another and I'm starting with brakes. More stopping power means later braking into corners. Then it's suspension upgrades. Better suspension means I can enter corners quicker nad hold traction through them. Then finally upgrade the motor a little for the straights. I wanna keep the motor in a streetable condition as well since I will still wanna just drive it. Of course, in there will come a racing type wheel (or an EK9 Civic wheel), racing bucket with 5 point harness (I'm thinking red Recaro seats and Takata Harnesses), more accurate tachometer and other stuff as well. I'm damn well determined to make this thing a worthy track car while still being streetable. Most the parts I'm picking are sport and not race versions because of this.


  9. Well, the idle issue is fixed. While Jimmy was working on the car, he adjusted the IACV I believe and problem. My car's running better and stopping a little a better. I have to put my foot into it a little more though. Discs take more fluid than drums. I just need to get an EX Master cylinder and I also plan to get stainless steel braided brake lines too which will also stiffen up the pedal.


  10. Car should already be done but since I didn't have time to go get it before work, I'm still driving the Tacoma. I'll have to wait till after class tomorrow. I also talked with my mechanic about the problems I was having and he thinks it's a simple fix. We'll find out soon. I can't wait to get my car back.

    And because I just don't wanna do it myself in this crap, cold weather, I asked him to change the oil too. I mean heck, he's got a heated shop.


  11. Dropping the car off tomorrow to have the brake swap done. I'll be driving a 98 Toyota Tacoma 2WD 4cyl 5-Speed for the next coupla days. Not sure if I'll get it back Thursday or Friday as I may not have time to pick it up Thursday. I'd have to find someone to give me a ride to the shop to get it since my parents would be at work the only time I could go.


  12. Well, According to a fella on Honda-Tech (I made a thread on there), the 96 Civic CX and 99 Civic Si both have the same Proportioning valve. The Si has 4-wheel disc with larger front brakes. The only difference is it has a larger master cylinder. He said I should be fine and not worry too much on it but suggests that when I can, I should probably swap the front brakes out with Si or EX brakes and get an Si or EX master cylinder and brake booster.


  13. Well, i may have hit a snag with the brake swap. I was randomly surfing InLineFour.com for some maintenance parts (great place for OEM Honda stuff and aftermarket as well) and I came across something called a Proportioning Valve in the OEM Section. In the description, it said "a must have for cars with drum to rear disc conversions". So I got to looking it up. I'm not entirely sure what it does but I heard that the brake pedal could be soft after a rear disc swap (having to push it further which is the exact opposite of what I expected). Some say a proportioning valve swap fixes that (I believe mine is a 30/40, and the one recommended is a 40/40, whatever the hell that means), some say a bigger master cylinder/brake booster is the fix. Some say swap both, some say swap neither so I'm confused. But from what I looked up, most of the people were swapping front and rear brakes while I'm keeping the stock small CX brakes and using old DA9 Integra Brakes.

    If it turns out that I REALLY should swap the stuff, I may have to hit up a junkyard for that crap cause I ain't buyin none of it new. The valve alone on InLineFour was like $165. If I can get away with running the stock stuff for a while I run with that and swap the rest later.


  14. Ok, apparently I had less fuel than I thought cause I filled up today with only 198 miles on the trip-odo and put 9.3 gallons in :blink: ....... that's about 21-22MPG, the absolute worst I've ever gotten... EVER! The worst before was 23MPG when I was TRYING to get kill the mileage (I thought I had some bad fuel).

    Looks like my tax return this year is actually going to be worth something so I guess I'm gonna use that money for repairs.


  15. Well I typically get 26MPG in cold weather but suddenly it dropped buy I may not be getting as bad mileage as I thought. It's still around 24 though. I think it was those 13-24 degree weather days that did it.

    I don't have a cold air intake. I have a short ram intake so I still get some warmer air from the bay. I have noticed that sometimes after it's been running a while, even with it's problems, it's been pulling hard if I get on it. When I dyno'd at 148WHP and 105WTQ, it was in Heatsoak conditions (95 degree day in the infield of a race track with over a 1000 cars there with some cars on the track making the temp really around 105) so I'm sure after all the maintenance is taken care of, I could probably get higher WHP and WTQ numbers in cooler weather.


  16. OK, now my fuel mileage has gone down the toilet. It's lookin like 20-23MPG. I'm not sure if it's the bitter cold we had there for a few days or what. I'm gonna buy some stuff at O'Reilly's tomorrow. I'm gonna buy what I need to swap the brakes and then get some oil, a filter and some crush rings. I'm hoping an oil change will at least help it a little cause lord knows it needs it bad. I'm also going to ask Jimmy about some of the problems and see if I can get him to check a few things while he's got it for the brakes. Man I just really wish some money would come my way just to get all the maintenance out of the way.