Torin_Darkflight

Sorry for bumping such an old thread, but I'm still kind of indecisive regarding what brand/type of RAM I am going to order. I have decided to extend the length of my new systems life-before-next-upgrade by going with a 2x512MB dual-channel kit. At the moment I am seriously eyeing the OCZ Premier Value 2x512MB kit found here. Now, according to the technical info page on the MSI website, OCZ memory is compatible with my new motherboard. But, is it reliable? If it's of any relevance, I do not plan to do any overclocking at all in my new system. If you decide to recommend something different, her

These folders contain the older versions of the files that were replaced while installing the various updates. They're backed up in these folders in case you decide to uninstall any of the updates for some reason. You CAN safely delete $NTServicePackUninstall$, $NTUninstallKBXXXXXX$ and any other similar folders to free up disk space (I deleted all of these folders on my laptop several months ago with no ill effect). However, keep in mind that after you do so, you will not be able to uninstall any of those updates.

Well, I have the newer version of the control software installed. It does successfully shut down the computer AND turn off the UPS afterwards, so at least I know it works like it is supposed to. Now, if only I could figure out how to make it automatically hibernate instead of doing a full shut down, and still have the UPS turn off afterwards. I'm already halfway there, I can make it automatically hibernate by having the software run a .BAT script when the battery gets low. But, to do this I need to disable the automatic shut down option, which in turn disables the signal that tells the UPS to

Unfortunately I can't cut the power to my room without cutting it to half the house, something I doubt the other people who live here would enjoy. Besides, I don't see any difference between pulling the plug from the wall and turning off the power at the fuse box (They both result in no power flowing into the UPS, thus they should be interpreted the same way). I found a newer version of the UPS software on the company's website. I'm going to download and give that a try to see if it makes any difference.

Not an insult at all. I did search through Google, but a lot of the programs I found there were either for Linux or were for brands/models other than the one I have. I also tried to look for information about how to configure XP's built-in UPS service to work with my UPS, but I couldn't find anything along those lines. I'm hesitant to just begin messing around in the UPS service configuration, because there's an ominous warning in there that leads me to believe the wrong settings might damage the UPS or the computer. Something else I need to add...along with shutting down the computer (Or havi

Those who have been keeping up with some of my recent posts here know that this past week I finally got a UPS for my computer. I really like how the UPS itself is functioning. It immediately switches over to battery power, and is surprisingly able to keep my system running given how small it is. However, I'm not all that fond of the monitoring and configuration program it came with. It uses Java running in Internet Explorer, so it is slow and sluggish to respond. Also, the interface is a little confusing. The worst part of all...last night I decided to test out the UPS. I pulled the plug with

Ok, I just returned back from the computer job. I did everything I could think of and was able to do given the tools and parts I had available to me. After exhausting every other option available to me, I ended up replacing the motherboard and reinstalling Windows. One of the capacitors on the old motherboard was leaking when I removed it, which leads me to believe that it was most likely the culprit. The system is working perfectly now, and all is well. Thanks for all the help.

Ok, I'm back on the ailing computer right now. Of the things recommended to me last night, here is what I have tried so far: -Running Spybot in Safe Mode (Didn't help, it still turned off) -Disable Tea Timer in Spybot (Recommended on the G4 forums. Tea Timer was already disabled, thus this isn't working) -Enabling Administrative Alert (It was already enabled, thus it's not helping) -Uninstalling then reinstalling Spybot (Didn't help) -Run HijackThis (See log below) Now, while I was running Spybot in Safe mode, it did manage to find a couple things before the system turned off. They were "Spywa

Have you tried in safe mode? Not yet, I'll try that tomorrow. However, given the fact that immediately after it shuts down the system won't POST for around 10 minutes, most likely it is hardware-related, in which case Safe Mode might not help. I'll try it anyway. Does the PC just shut off, or does it go into a shutdown? It just turns off. No error messages, no "Windows is shutting down", nothing. It's sudden, like flipping off a light switch. R-Click on MY Computer and click on properties...Then to "Advanced">"Startup and Recovery" and click on "Settings"...place a check in "Send an Adminis

Ok, earlier this evening I got back from a rather curious computer call. Whenever the user runs Spybot, it'll get to about halfway done in the scan, then the computer will suddenly turn off. No error messages, no beeps, just *poof*, it's off. Then, it'll refuse to turn back on unless you let it sit for about 10 minutes (The lights and fans will turn on, but the system won't POST). The fact that it won't POST afterwards obviously points to a hardware problem instead of a software problem. Just to be sure though, I scanned for viruses (Came up clean), and I was able to run Ad-Aware all the way t

Well, I put it off for far too long. But now, I finally have a UPS on my computer. It's just a small one, rated only 575VA/345W (I'm not looking to continue working during power failures, just hoping for a few extra minutes so it'll shut down properly), but it seems to work beautifully. Anyway, since this is my first UPS, I was wondering if there is any regular maintenance I need to do, any steps that need to be done to help maximize the life and reliability of the UPS. About the only maintenance the manual goes into is how often it should be recharged while in long-term storage. BTW, if you'r

Ok, here's a link to the video that shows how to make an invisible folder: http://www.animaltracks.net/~torin/Misc_Ju...ble_Folders.avi Forgive the poor quality, the only "video editor" I have is actually a crude GIF editor that somehow happens to also support video files. BTW, two points I forgot in the video: when typing ALT+0160 to rename the folder, the numbers need to be entered on the numberpad, not the row of numbers at the top of the keyboard. Also, the icon label drop shadows must be enabled for it to work (Control Panel, System, Advanced tab, Click "Settings" under the Performance se

Are the two computers connected directly to each other, or through a router/hub? If they are directly connected: are you using an ethernet crossover cable? Other things to check: are both computers members of the same workgroup? Is file sharing enabled on both systems? On the XP machine: is the firewall configured to allow file sharing?

In my opinion, just writing out the steps would make it too easy to get lost in the process, especially when some of the steps are difficult to explain with words alone. On the other hand, a video shows exactly where to click and what to do, and it is very easy to follow along. BTW, I just converted the video, and I'll post a link once I get it uploaded.

I figured out on XP how to make an invisible folder on the desktop, no external programs or registry hacks required. Perhaps this could be of help? I'll come back a little later and post a link to a recorded video that shows how to make an invisible folder (Provided I can figure out how to convert it from MNG to DivX).

Set the file to Hidden AND System. You'll need to do this using the ATTRIB command at the CMD prompt. Of course, to be able to open it, you'll need to remove the Hidden and System attributes, but at least this whole process is easily done without any extra programs.

The most effective method would be a reformat and reinstall of everything. Make sure you backup all your files to CD or DVD before doing this though. Yes, you could possibly go through and manually remove stuff you know you don't need, but there's no way to get every little bit using this method. By the way, if you do decide to go the reformat and reinstall route, one thing that's recommended is to create separate partitions, one for the OS and installed programs, the other for your personal files. Thus, if the need to reformat ever arises again, all of your data will be safe on the second par

Are you running Windows 2000 or XP? If so, then you will need to reinstall Windows. NT-based versions of Windows cannot handle sudden hardware changes such as a motherboard replacement. In these situations, they will die at bootup with a BSOD that usually says "INACCESSIBLE_BOOT_DEVICE". The only way to fix it is to reinstall Windows. Oh, and before anyone else brings it up: yes, it MIGHT be possible to get it running again using the emergency repair option (Available when booting from the Windows CD), but there are no guarantees that it will work, and even if it does it might not be very reli

Can you access the Command Prompt in Safe Mode? If so, here's a quick and dirty way to do a file search. -Click on Start, select Run, and enter cmd to open a Command Prompt window -At the Command Prompt, type the following and then press ENTER: X: - Replace "X" with whatever drive letter the file is located on (For example, if it's on drive F, enter F:). -After switching to the proper drive, type cd \ and press ENTER -Enter the following command: dir FILENAME /a /s - Replace "FILENAME" with the name of the file you are looking for (For example, if you're searching for a file called Birthday.jp

Most of what I do is general internet-related stuff, with a little bit of minor photo editing. Perhaps the most power-hungry thing I do is operate several installs of various versions of Windows under VMware. Just because I'm not doing more now doesn't mean I won't be in the future. Thus, my situation isn't "overkill", it's planning for the future. Something else I am unclear on...while looking around, I see some brands that come with heat spreaders, and others that don't. Are heat spreaders something I absolutely need, or would the normal airflow inside the case be sufficient enough to cool t

I'm in the process of ordering and preparing to build my next computer. Here are the core components it will contain: PSU - Thermaltake 420W Motherboard - MSI K8N Neo4-F CPU - AMD Athlon 64 3500+ Venice 939 RAM - 512MB Dual-Channel (Has yet to be ordered) Video - Sapphire Radeon X700 PCI-E (Has yet to be ordered) Now, I don't do any gaming or video editing, so I have no need to shoot for top-of-the-line (This explains the lower-end MSI board and only 512MB RAM, which more than meets my current needs). Although I have no pressing need to change the physical amount of memory, I am converting to

Hey, has anyone else here been having trouble updating Spybot lately, like during the past few days? After installing it on several of my customers computers, I've been getting lots of "bad checksum" errors while downloading new updates. Even after selecting different servers to download from, I still get bad checksum errors. Eventually I am able to get all the updates downloaded, but it requires like three or four retries from several different servers. All systems in question are running Spybot version 1.4, and all of them connected to the internet via dialup. Except for one system that was

Five BNC connectors...it's possible your mystery card could be a type of video card. The monitor on our computer downstairs is currently running off a standard VGA connection, but it also has five BNC connectors on the back matching the description you gave. I assume three of the lines carry the data for red/green/blue, but I have no idea what the other two lines are for.

Just a quaint little bump to keep this post from dying with zero replies.

Read the following. Don't try to hard, just look and read: Aoccdrnig to rsaecerh at Cmabrigde Uinervtisy, it deosn't mttaer in waht oredr the ltteers in a wrod are, the olny iprmoatnt tihng is taht the frist and lsat ltteer be in the rghit pclae. The rset can be a taotl mses and you can sitll raed it wouthit porbelm. Tihs is bcuseae the huamn mnid deos not raed ervey lteter by istlef, but the wrod as a wlohe. Amzanig, huh?